ps2727

Great work Vladimir!
paul

sierratango

Joe,

The photos show the preparation for making the seam line flange mold. At this stage only half of the fuselage is molded. This small mold will capture about 1\4" of the other side of the fuselage plug and obviously will be indexed. Once this piece is removed, I will add material, like rubber sheet to the captured molded area on this mold. Once the entire mold is finished, the idea will be to lay up the right and left halves of the fuse and trim the parts back to the middle seam line. Then add this new mold to the one half of the fuselage mold and lay up another layer of carbon which will overlap the seam line and also project inside the seam line of where the other half of the fuselage part will be. Then when all is done, the two halves of the mold are joined and this flange will overlap on the inside making for a strong and perfect overlap glue joint. This is done because the tail boom is so narrow I can't get my fingers into that area. Also, the result is cleaner and stronger than laying down glass tape over the seam from the inside of the mold.

This is just fun stuff. Vladimir's metal work looks great and almost bullet proof...STRONG!

BTW, The plan is to make this glider with no paint, it will be exposed carbon and Carbon/Kevlar. 1.9 oz cloth weight. Both bi directional and uni directional materials. Many of the photos are on another post, under sailplanes and "Where are all the pure gliders?"

vholis

thanks so much vladimir

sierratango

My daughter took a few photos of me finishing my fuselage mold yesterday.

Im away for a few days and will open the mold upon my return.

Remembering Gene Wilder, "It's alive!"

Thanks for the Los Banos information.

jofunk

Yes, but will it have the brain of Hans Delbrook or Abby Normal?

ozief16

My Feedback: (13)

Jofunk,

i just just spit beer from my nose and mouth. Damn you that was funny!

Dave

sierratango

Jofunk...you are good!

Happy New Year!

jofunk

I thought I was only going to give myself a laugh……. Happy new year guys!

jofunk

Nothing exciting.I just started carving a foam nose. I want to see if the body lines flow to a point.

jofunk

I started doubling up the area where the hatch is going to be cut out. I left the gap ample with some wood spacers to get a hack saw blade in there and cut it away. Looser is better than tighter when doing this. The last time I did this, when I thought I was cutting through the bulkhead, I was actually cutting through the sill of the cockpit area. ( I was wondering why it took so long to cut through.) When it is cut away everything will be lined with glass cloth. the rest of the gap will get back filled with body filler. I also glued in some triangle stock to reinforce the box area.

estebanpagan

My Feedback: (8)

where did you order Phil Knuckle's plans.

jofunk

I would have to look where I bought Phil's plans. Are you interested in them? I never used them………….Here is what Vladimir came up with for an actuator. The motor with a gear box was purchased at American Science Surplus. A.S.S is a local gold mine of odd things. You never know what you will find when you walk in. The motor is mounted on a gimbal to accommodate the motion of the gear. The gimbal is also mounted above the gear to give it a better mechanical advantage. The gear box is connected to a 1/4-20 threaded rod. The rod runs into a 1/4-20 brass insert on the other half of the actuating rod. It works perfectly. We ran it at our club meeting last night and I took a video of the operation. As soon as I edit and upload the video I will post it here. It is pretty cool to watch. The main gear will be the highlight of the airplane.

sc0tt

My Feedback: (61)

Hey Joe, instead of micro switches controlling your gear may I suggest using the Xicoy Pro gear controller. The Pro version has more control programming features than the basic version. No need to buy the data terminal, you can use the one from your Kingtech because it uses the Xicoy ECU. I am pretty sure you can make the Xicoy gear controller work and a lot simpler than a bunch of switches. It has additional features you may not need like e brakes, steering and doors but gear motor control is the key for your application.
http://www.dreamworksrc.com/catalog/...oller-Pro-3605
http://www.dreamworksrc.com/catalog/...php?file_id=80

Just a thought...Scott

b.bixel

My Feedback: (123)

Joe,
I sent you a PM regarding the plans.

Bart

vholis

motor with gear box is designed on 12 Volt , we run on 14.8 V ( 4 lipo) Vladimir;

jofunk

http://youtu.be/TLIMthjJKX8 Here is the Video of the gear operating. I took it at the Palos R/C flying clubs monthly meeting yesterday.

jofunk

I am fumbling through using the Private Message feature on this site. Bart I hope you got my reply. It seems like I can't see a PM after after I send one or reply to one. My PM in box and sent messages look like the same list.

sc0tt

My Feedback: (61)

I did not know the gear was running at that high voltage. The Xicoy controller says 10V max so it won't work for this.

jofunk

Hey Scott,

What voltage do your encoded gear operate on? What voltage do down and locked gear operate on? It would be nice if I did not need to use limit switches.

sysiek

My Feedback: (176)

Just use robart electric retracts controller .

jofunk

The Robart controller says 4.8 to 9.0 volts. I am assuming that is the same as Down n Locked. I don't know if Vladimir tried the gear on lower voltage or what the transition time would be.

sc0tt

My Feedback: (61)

If you can get your gear to work on 7.4v 2S lipo, like a 3300mah/20C or greater, then I would think you may be able to make the Xicoy controller work. I only brought it up because the Xicoy unit allows you to change a lot of parameters (just like their turbine ECU's) . I can't promise it will work for your specific gear but I'd say it's worth a try.

Another option may be to swap your electric motors for Dreamworks Hercules electric actuators. This would allow you to use the Xicoy controller with no issues. However you would need to put matching actuator shaft threads in your gear.
http://www.dreamworksrc.com/catalog/...ctric-Actuator

The encoder units I told you about are Behotec. Personally I'm not a fan of amping out to stop at end points. Behotec is the only mfg I know using an encoder that counts revolutions for end points - amp out is only used as a backup. I've never seen piece parts available for electric Behotec's so unless you want to buy complete retracts to rob motors off of I would not consider them an option in your case.

I am not familiar with the Robart or Down and Locked controller but they look similar. I took a brief look thru their manuals and it seems user adjustments are limited.

Now if you're really smart with electronics, or know someone who is, you may be able to actuate your gear with motors or actuators from https://www.servocity.com/index.html

vholis

scOtt
fallow your idea is to replace motor for speed 400 graupner motor what have more torque and run on 7.5 volts and cost about 12$ in hobby lobby and size fits
perfectly on gear box Vladimir;

Ron S

My Feedback: (2)

Impressive work on the landing gear!!

sierratango

Reading all the recent post regarding electrical relays, makes me think you guys should be building real airplanes, then I remember you are. Reference to, "Flight Of The Pheonix"

The landing gear is looking great and the fuse build is coming along nicely.

Other than the general,gallery I have no where else to post my photos,,not really following anything else.

Finished another part of my project today..

Ready to to start making some parts,,then get one in the air.